How We Develop Luxury Cashmere Knitwear
A structured sampling line — from proto to SMS to PP — built to give boutique and luxury brands technical clarity, repeatable fit and disciplined development.
Where Cashmere Quality Begins — In the First Sample
Sampling defines the entire season. A proto that is knitted with the correct tension, washed with the correct curve and finished with the correct discipline becomes the anchor for SMS and bulk. If the first sample is calm, accurate and technically understood, 90% of the production challenges never appear.
Every development request enters a structured workflow: yarn readiness, construction logic, gauge confirmation, tension panels, wash tests, shrinkage curves and measurement alignment. From there, our technical and knitting teams build the proto as a true production reference — not as a one-off handmade piece that cannot be repeated.
This approach allows boutique and luxury brands to design confidently. The proto is the first promise; the SMS is the second; the bulk is the final delivery of that promise. We manage these three steps with the same discipline so that what your buyer sees in the showroom is what arrives in-store.
Construction Logic, Stitch Behaviour & Wash Direction
Each sample begins with understanding the garment’s purpose: drape, hand-feel, warmth level, stretch, recovery and intended fit. Based on this, we choose yarn count, gauge, structure and finishing direction before a single stitch is knitted.
Tension panels are required for every new stitch or yarn lot. These panels determine knitting settings, expected shrinkage and finishing outcomes — forming the foundation of every proto and SMS.
Technical documents generated at this stage:
- Swatch & structure confirmation
- Gauge & tension sheet
- Wash curve & shrinkage record
- Construction notes for linking & finishing
- Measurement alignment sheet
Blocks, Ease, Proportion & Repeatability
We maintain a library of proven blocks refined over 15+ years: classic, relaxed, oversized, fitted, cropped, longline and unisex. Buyers can use these directly or customise them for their brand identity.
Measurements are taken pre-wash and post-wash, ensuring the final fit aligns with buyer expectations and can be repeated exactly in bulk.
Our measurement discipline includes:
- Pre-wash measurement record
- Post-wash measurement alignment
- Shrinkage mapping
- Fit block selection per body type
- Repeatability analysis for future seasons
Proto → SMS → PP: A Controlled, Repeatable Line
Our sampling line mirrors production, ensuring accuracy from the first stitch. Every sample passes through the same knitting, linking and washing standards used during bulk.
PROTO (First Sample)
Created from approved yarn and stitch logic. Confirms fabric behaviour, finishing direction, initial fit and feasibility.
SMS (Salesman Sample / Size Set)
Produced with production-level discipline for showroom and sell-in.
PP / TOP (Pre-Production Sample)
Final alignment before bulk — shade, structure, measurements, tension and finishing.
By holding these three steps stable, buyers receive a production line that feels predictable, confident and repeatable.
“A perfect sample eliminates 80% of future problems. The discipline you put into development is the discipline the customer feels in the final garment.”
For Boutique & Luxury Brands
Start Your Cashmere Program with Kanchan
Share your vision, yarn preferences and timelines. We will help you structure development, sampling and production with clear steps and realistic delivery dates.