MANUFACTURING / 01

Production Readiness

Manufacturing should begin only when commercial, technical, material and quality conditions are sufficiently complete to support controlled execution.

Release conditions

Production readiness requires a confirmed purchase order, payment status aligned with agreed terms, approved specifications, colour and size breakdown, approved material direction and a realistic delivery window.

Open approvals should be listed explicitly. Production should not rely on assumptions about measurements, trims, labels, testing or packing.

Readiness review

Merchandising, production and quality teams review the job before yarn allocation and machine planning. Risks involving yarn availability, construction complexity, capacity or testing are identified.

The release decision should confirm what is approved, what remains conditional and who owns each open action.

Manufacturing discipline begins before the first panel is knitted.

Controlled start

A production start date is meaningful only after yarn readiness and critical approvals are confirmed. Starting too early may create rework, shade inconsistency or missed delivery.

The approved production package becomes the active reference for all departments.

Practical considerations

Do not calendar bulk against unconfirmed yarn.
Close critical measurements and colour approvals.
Identify conditional approvals in writing.
Assign owners and deadlines.
Issue one controlled production package.

Manufacturing reference

Commercial readiness	PO, payment and delivery	Order release
Technical readiness	Spec, sample and tolerances	Production release
Material readiness	Yarn, trims and colour	Supply release
Quality readiness	Standards and references	Inspection release

MANUFACTURING / 02

Production Planning & Capacity Allocation

Production planning converts confirmed orders into machine, labour, material and finishing schedules without overloading critical operations.

Capacity planning

Each style is assessed by gauge, machine type, stitch complexity, expected daily output and required completion date.

Planning must consider not only knitting capacity but also linking, washing, finishing, inspection and packing.

Sequence and balance

Styles are sequenced according to yarn readiness, delivery priority and operational compatibility. Bottlenecks often occur after knitting if linking or finishing capacity is not reserved.

Parallel production is useful only when quality control and supervision remain effective.

A realistic plan balances every operation, not only the knitting floor.

Schedule control

Daily and weekly output is compared with the production plan. Deviations are investigated early and corrective actions are recorded.

Capacity changes should be communicated before they affect the confirmed delivery window.

Practical considerations

Reserve capacity across all stages.
Identify critical-path styles.
Use realistic output assumptions.
Review delays daily.
Protect confirmed delivery priorities.

Manufacturing reference

Knitting plan	Machine and operator allocation	Panel output
Linking plan	Assembly capacity	Garment completion
Finishing plan	Wash and dry capacity	Dimensional control
Packing plan	QC-cleared pieces	Shipment readiness

MANUFACTURING / 03

Yarn Receipt & Lot Control

Incoming yarn must be checked, identified and segregated before it enters production.

Incoming checks

Cones are checked for damage, contamination, oil marks, winding quality, article, count, composition, colour and lot number.

Supplier documents and relevant certification scope are reviewed where required.

Lot discipline

Different dye lots should not be mixed without technical approval. Yarn is labelled and stored by buyer, order, style, colour and lot.

Quantities are reconciled against purchase and production requirements, including expected waste and contingency.

Lot control protects colour continuity before the garment exists.

Release and traceability

Accepted yarn is released to production; questionable material is held for review. Yarn article, colour and lot references remain traceable through the relevant production and packing records.

Any material substitution requires documented approval and an updated job record before use.

Practical considerations

Record every received lot.
Do not mix lots casually.
Hold damaged or uncertain cones.
Confirm quantity before scheduling.
Update records after any substitution.

Manufacturing reference

Article check	Correct yarn identity	Specification control
Lot check	Colour and batch identity	Shade control
Condition check	Damage and contamination	Quality control
Quantity check	Available kilograms	Planning control

MANUFACTURING / 04

Yarn Preparation & Conditioning

Appropriate yarn preparation helps stabilise feeding and knitting behaviour before the material reaches the machine.

Preparation requirements

Depending on the yarn article and spinner guidance, preparation may include cone inspection, acclimatisation, rewinding, approved waxing or controlled conditioning.

Fine cashmere and luxury blends require clean handling and controlled yarn tension to reduce contamination, damage and unnecessary fibre stress.

Machine suitability

Yarn path, feeders, tension devices and number of ends are prepared according to the approved construction.

Uneven winding or unsuitable tension can create bars, breakage, inconsistent loops or surface defects.

Stable knitting begins with stable yarn delivery.

Control

Prepared yarn is issued against the job record. Remaining cones and partial lots are returned and identified after use.

Any abnormal breakage, shedding or winding issue is reported before full production continues.

Practical considerations

Condition yarn in the production environment.
Keep cones clean and covered.
Use approved tension settings.
Report abnormal breakage early.
Return remnants with full identification.

Manufacturing reference

Conditioning	Environmental stabilization	Consistent behaviour
Rewinding	Improved package quality	Stable feeding
Waxing	Reduced friction where approved	Knitting efficiency
Issue control	Job-wise quantity	Traceability

MANUFACTURING / 05

Machine Setup & First-Off Approval

Machine setup translates the approved knit specification into repeatable production conditions.

Setup variables

Machine gauge, needle selection, number of yarn ends, stitch length or stitch setting, yarn-feed tension, feeders, take-down and programmed shaping are established according to the approved construction.

Settings may require adjustment by yarn article, colour, lot, structure, panel and machine condition.

First-off panel

The first panel is checked for dimensions, stitch formation, density, surface clarity and defects before bulk knitting proceeds.

Where necessary, the panel is washed to confirm expected shrinkage and final measurements.

The first-off is the earliest opportunity to stop a repeatable defect.

Approved settings

Critical settings are recorded and controlled. Where a machine, yarn lot or other significant process variable changes, relevant first-off checks are repeated according to risk.

Bulk knitting proceeds after the required first-off approval confirms the intended production standard.

Practical considerations

Do not rely on memory for settings.
Check panel measurements.
Review stitch formation closely.
Wash-test sensitive structures.
Repeat approval after major change.

Manufacturing reference

Machine setting	Technical parameters	Repeatability
First-off panel	Initial production output	Early control
Wash test	Dimensional response	Finish control
Setting record	Approved values	Process control

MANUFACTURING / 06

Panel Knitting & Fully-Fashioned Shaping

Knitted panels must maintain the approved dimensions, shaping and stitch quality throughout the production run.

Panel control

Body, sleeve, collar, pocket and trim components are produced according to approved dimensions and shaping.

Fully-fashioned marks, transfers, decreases and increases are checked for consistency and visual cleanliness.

In-process checks

Operators and inline QC monitor holes, needle lines, dropped stitches, yarn breaks, tension stripes, contamination and incorrect shaping.

Panels are grouped by style, colour, size and lot to prevent mixing.

Consistent garments begin with consistent panels.

Handling

Panels are rested or conditioned as required, counted and protected from distortion or surface damage. Heavy, open or delicate structures require appropriate stacking and handling.

Non-conforming panels are segregated for assessment, controlled repair where technically acceptable, or rejection before assembly.

Practical considerations

Check first panels of every size.
Protect fully-fashioned edges.
Separate lots and sizes.
Do not send known defects to linking.
Record panel output accurately.

Manufacturing reference

Body panels	Main garment shape	Fit foundation
Sleeves	Length and shaping	Balance
Trims	Neck, cuff and hem parts	Assembly detail
Panel record	Quantity and status	Production tracking

MANUFACTURING / 07

Inline Knitting Quality Control

Inline control prevents knitting defects from accumulating across large quantities.

Inline inspection

QC reviews production at defined intervals based on style complexity, process risk and output. Checks can include first-off pieces, operator output and higher-risk constructions.

Inspection covers stitch formation, panel dimensions, shaping, shade, contamination and machine-related defects.

Immediate correction

When a repeat defect appears, affected output is isolated and the machine, yarn path or setting is corrected.

Previously produced panels are screened to determine the containment range.

Inline control is most valuable before the defect becomes inventory.

Records and feedback

Defects and corrective actions are recorded by style, machine and operator. Repeated issues are escalated for root-cause review.

Quality findings should feed back into setup and training.

Practical considerations

Define inspection frequency by process risk.
Increase checks on complex or unstable styles.
Contain repeat defects promptly.
Screen potentially affected output.
Use findings for process improvement.

Manufacturing reference

Needle line	Machine or needle issue	Stop and correct
Tension stripe	Yarn delivery issue	Reset and screen
Dropped stitch	Loop formation failure	Repair or reject
Wrong dimension	Setting or shaping issue	Correct specification

MANUFACTURING / 08

Panel Matching & Bundling

Correct bundling ensures that all components of a garment remain aligned by size, colour, shade and production lot.

Matching rules

Body panels, sleeves, collars and trims are matched before linking. Shade or surface variation between components is checked under appropriate light.

Bundles carry style, size, colour, lot and quantity identification.

Preparation for assembly

Panels are counted, oriented and arranged in assembly sequence. Missing or mismatched components are resolved before linking begins.

Delicate edges are handled carefully to avoid dropped stitches.

A garment can be technically correct and still fail if its panels do not belong together.

Bundle control

Bundles move through assembly as controlled units. Components should not be exchanged casually between lots or shade bands.

Bundle discrepancies are recorded and corrected at source.

Practical considerations

Match under consistent lighting.
Confirm all components before linking.
Use clear bundle tickets.
Protect live edges.
Investigate recurring shortages.

Manufacturing reference

Body and sleeve	Shade and size match	Visual consistency
Collar and trim	Dimension and colour	Assembly readiness
Bundle ticket	Order identity	Traceability
Shortage record	Missing component	Corrective action

MANUFACTURING / 09

Linking & Garment Assembly

Linking joins knitted components while preserving the required seam elasticity, comfort, alignment and internal finish.

Assembly method

Prepared knitted edges are mounted and joined on the appropriate linking equipment according to the approved seam construction. The exact operation depends on gauge, edge design and garment construction.

Shoulders, side seams, sleeves, collars and trims are assembled in the specified sequence.

Workmanship control

Checks include seam alignment, linking tension, visible bites, skipped loops, puckering, loose ends and symmetry.

Seams should support movement without becoming bulky or rigid.

Precision at the seam determines how the garment sits, moves and lasts.

Post-linking review

Each garment is examined before washing. Open seams, incorrect attachments and major alignment issues are corrected immediately.

Assembly records retain operator and batch traceability.

Practical considerations

Use the correct linking gauge.
Check shoulder and sleeve balance.
Avoid visible needle bites.
Secure ends cleanly.
Inspect before finishing.

Manufacturing reference

Shoulder seam	Balance and strength	Garment hang
Sleeve setting	Pitch and symmetry	Fit
Side seam	Alignment and comfort	Silhouette
Collar attachment	Shape and stretch	Neckline quality

MANUFACTURING / 10

Handwork, Trimming & Controlled Repair

Hand operations complete details that require precision beyond machine assembly.

Typical operations

Handwork may include attaching buttons, closing small openings, securing ends, embroidery, hand stitching, fringe work or selected repair.

Every operation should follow an approved method and placement.

Repair discipline

Repair is acceptable only when it restores the garment without weakening structure or creating visible distortion.

Major holes, shade contamination or incorrect construction should not be concealed through excessive repair.

Repair should restore quality, not disguise non-conformance.

Final trimming

Loose yarns are trimmed without cutting structural loops. The garment is checked for sharp ends, knots, residue or foreign fibres.

Handwork quality is reviewed before washing or final finishing.

Practical considerations

Use approved matching yarn.
Avoid bulky knots.
Do not cut live loops.
Reject irreparable defects.
Check every handworked area.

Manufacturing reference

Button attachment	Position and security	Functional finish
End securing	Clean internal finish	Durability
Small repair	Controlled restoration	Defect recovery
Trimming	Remove excess safely	Final cleanliness

MANUFACTURING / 11

Washing Process Control

Washing and wet finishing develop handfeel, surface character and final dimensions in cashmere knitwear and therefore require controlled, repeatable process parameters.

Process control

Water conditions, temperature, approved chemistry, time, mechanical action, load size and extraction are controlled according to yarn, colour and construction.

The approved development or pre-production reference and associated finishing record establish the intended result.

Dimensional response

First-off garments are measured before and after washing. Shrinkage, growth, stitch relaxation, colour and surface character are reviewed.

Different lots or colours may require closer monitoring.

Washing is a manufacturing operation, not a cosmetic treatment.

Batch discipline

Loads are separated by style, colour and shade band. Overloading or mixed batches can create uneven finishing.

Wash records identify date, machine, recipe, operator and batch.

Practical considerations

Follow the approved recipe.
Control load size.
Measure first-off garments.
Separate shade bands.
Record every batch.

Manufacturing reference

Water and chemistry	Fibre development	Handfeel
Time and movement	Surface response	Consistency
Extraction	Moisture removal	Shape protection
Batch record	Recipe and identity	Traceability

MANUFACTURING / 12

Drying, Blocking & Finishing

Drying and blocking establish the garment’s final shape, measurements and presentation after washing.

Drying method

Garments are supported to prevent stretch and distortion. Flat drying or controlled equipment is selected according to construction.

Heavy knitwear should not hang while wet.

Blocking and shaping

Garments are shaped toward approved measurements without forcing or overstretching the knitted structure. Ribs, collars, hems and seams are aligned carefully.

Steam, brushing, pressing or other surface treatment is applied only where appropriate to the approved product and yarn.

Finishing should reveal the quality of the knit, not flatten or disguise it.

Conditioning

Garments are allowed to rest before final measurement and inspection. Moisture and temperature should stabilize.

Any excessive growth, shrinkage or distortion is isolated for review.

Practical considerations

Never hang heavy wet garments.
Shape without overstretching.
Protect ribs and surface texture.
Allow conditioning time.
Recheck measurements after rest.

Manufacturing reference

Flat drying	Shape protection	Heavy and fine knits
Blocking	Dimensional alignment	Fit control
Steam or brush	Approved surface finish	Presentation
Conditioning	Stabilized state	Final measurement

MANUFACTURING / 13

Post-Finish Measurement Control

Final measurements must be checked after the garment has completed its approved washing, drying and conditioning process.

Measurement state

Garments are measured flat using the approved points of measurement and without unnecessary stretch.

The inspection surface, method and sequence should remain consistent.

Tolerances

Results are compared with the approved specification and style-specific tolerances. Complex ribs, cables and oversized constructions may have tailored allowances.

Out-of-tolerance pieces are identified for re-blocking, repair or rejection.

Measurement control is meaningful only when method and garment state are consistent.

Data use

Measurement trends can reveal process drift in knitting, washing or blocking. Repeated deviation should trigger process correction rather than repeated garment adjustment.

Records support final inspection and shipment release.

Practical considerations

Measure on a stable flat surface.
Use one approved method.
Do not stretch to achieve spec.
Track repeated deviations.
Correct the process at source.

Manufacturing reference

Body length	HPS to hem	Length control
Chest width	Defined level	Ease control
Sleeve length	Approved origin	Balance control
Openings	Neck, cuff and hem	Recovery control

MANUFACTURING / 14

Workmanship Inspection

Workmanship inspection evaluates visible and structural quality after all major production operations are complete.

Inspection scope

Inspectors review holes, dropped stitches, needle lines, seams, linking, loose ends, stains, shade, symmetry, trims and finishing.

The garment is examined inside and outside under suitable lighting.

Defect classification

Defects may be classified as critical, major or minor according to the agreed inspection standard and their effect on safety, legal compliance, function, appearance and customer acceptance.

Critical defects require immediate containment. Major and minor defects are handled according to the applicable quality plan and acceptance criteria.

Luxury quality depends on disciplined inspection, not on the hope that defects are unnoticed.

Disposition

Pieces are passed, held for rework or rejected. Reworked garments are reinspected before returning to accepted stock.

Defect data is summarized to identify recurring process issues.

Practical considerations

Inspect under good light.
Use approved defect standards.
Separate held pieces physically.
Reinspect all rework.
Report recurring defects.

Manufacturing reference

Hole or open seam	Major defect	Repair or reject
Stain	Major or minor by severity	Clean or reject
Loose end	Minor if removable	Trim and recheck
Wrong label	Major compliance issue	Correct before release

MANUFACTURING / 15

Final Inspection & AQL 2.5

Final inspection uses an agreed sampling and acceptance framework to assess whether the completed production lot meets the defined quality and packing requirements.

Inspection framework

Kanchan Cashmere’s stated production quality framework uses AQL 2.5 with General Inspection Level II. The applicable sampling standard, lot size, sample size and acceptance/rejection numbers should be defined in the inspection plan or buyer requirement.

AQL sampling complements rather than replaces inline process control and any required 100% checks.

Inspection content

The audit covers workmanship, measurements, shade, labels, quantity, folding, packaging and carton markings.

Representative pieces are selected across colours, sizes and cartons.

AQL does not replace process control; it verifies the result of process control.

Release rule

Lots meeting the applicable inspection criteria may proceed to shipment release after documentation is completed. A failed inspection requires containment and corrective action; the appropriate response may include sorting, rework, 100% screening and reinspection according to the defect and agreed quality plan.

The final report records findings, measurements, supporting photographs where applicable and disposition.

Practical considerations

Select samples across the lot.
Record defect classifications accurately.
Include measurement verification.
Do not ship failed lots.
Retain the final inspection report.

Manufacturing reference

Lot size	Packed production quantity	Sampling basis
Sample size	Per standard table	Audit quantity
Acceptance number	AQL 2.5 threshold	Release decision
Inspection report	Findings and photos	Documentation

MANUFACTURING / 16

Shade Band & Lot Control

Shade and lot control reduces unacceptable colour variation within individual garments and across the approved shipment presentation.

Shade evaluation

Bulk yarn and finished garments are compared with the approved standard under daylight-equivalent and alternate light sources.

Natural fibres and mélange shades may show acceptable character while still requiring controlled grouping.

Shade grouping

Where acceptable variation exists, garments may be grouped into approved shade bands according to the programme’s colour standard. Components within an individual garment must remain visually compatible.

Packing rules for different shade bands should follow the buyer-approved assortment and presentation requirements rather than an assumed universal ratio rule.

Shade variation becomes manageable when it is identified, grouped and controlled.

Traceability

Lot and band references are carried into packing records. Significant deviation outside the approved range is held for buyer review or rejection.

Metamerism observations are documented.

Practical considerations

Check colour after finishing.
Use consistent lighting.
Match garment components.
Record band identity.
Do not mix bands casually.

Manufacturing reference

Approved standard	Target shade	Colour benchmark
Bulk lot	Spinner or dye batch	Traceability
Shade band	Controlled variation group	Packing control
Metamerism note	Light-source difference	Risk record

MANUFACTURING / 17

Label, Trim & Compliance Verification

Labels, trims and product information must match the approved order and the legal or commercial requirements applicable to the destination market before packing.

Verification points

Brand label, size label, fibre-content information, care instructions, country-of-origin marking, barcode and hangtag are checked as applicable to the programme and destination market.

Wording, symbols, language, artwork and placement should match the approved files and relevant requirements.

Attachment quality

Labels should be secure, comfortable and correctly oriented. Buttons, zippers and other trims are checked for function and colour.

Sharp edges, loose attachments or visible damage are unacceptable.

A correctly made garment is not shipment-ready if its compliance information is wrong.

Document control

Approved trim cards and artwork are available at inspection. Superseded versions are removed from active use.

Compliance evidence is retained where required by the programme.

Practical considerations

Check every wording element.
Confirm market-specific requirements.
Test attachment security.
Scan barcodes where applicable.
Remove obsolete artwork.

Manufacturing reference

Brand label	Identity	Placement and spelling
Care/content label	Legal information	Accuracy
Size label	Customer sizing	Correct size
Hangtag/barcode	Commercial information	Scan and artwork check

MANUFACTURING / 18

Folding, Protective Packing & Presentation

Packing protects the garment’s shape and surface while presenting the product consistently for the buyer.

Garment preparation

Only QC-passed garments enter packing. They are lint-checked, folded to the approved standard and protected from compression or snagging.

Tissue or inserts are used only where specified and should not distort the garment.

Inner packing

Inner-bag material, dimensions, required warnings, ventilation, size identification and barcode are verified according to the buyer programme and destination requirements. Air and compression are controlled so the knit is protected in transit.

Heavy cables, delicate surfaces and special silhouettes may require adjusted folding or protective methods.

Luxury packing should protect the garment without unnecessary material.

Consistency

Folded dimensions and label visibility should remain consistent across the shipment.

Any buyer-specific presentation standard is documented and checked before carton packing.

Practical considerations

Do not pack held garments.
Protect stitch texture.
Use correctly sized bags.
Keep labels visible as agreed.
Check presentation consistency.

Manufacturing reference

Final lint check	Clean surface	Presentation
Folding	Approved dimensions	Shape protection
Inner bag	Moisture and abrasion protection	Transit safety
Sticker/barcode	Identification	Warehouse control

MANUFACTURING / 19

Carton Packing & Quantity Control

Carton packing must preserve product quality and reconcile exactly with the approved assortment and packing list.

Carton assortment

Garments are packed by style, colour, size and any approved shade grouping according to the confirmed packing instructions.

Each carton is counted and identified with the required carton number, quantity, weight, dimensions and shipping marks as applicable.

Transit protection

Cartons should be appropriately sized and strong enough for the route. Void space is controlled without over-compressing knitwear.

Humidity protection or desiccants are used only where required and approved.

A correct shipment is built carton by carton.

Reconciliation

Carton totals are reconciled against the production order and packing list. Mixed or short cartons are investigated before sealing.

Final carton records support customs and logistics documentation.

Practical considerations

Count each carton separately.
Do not mix shade bands.
Avoid excessive compression.
Verify weights and dimensions.
Reconcile totals before release.

Manufacturing reference

Carton ratio	Size and colour assortment	Buyer requirement
Carton mark	Identity and destination	Logistics
Weight/dimensions	Freight data	Shipping calculation
Packing list	Carton-level detail	Document control

MANUFACTURING / 20

Shipment Release & Documentation

Shipment release is the final controlled decision confirming that product, packing, commercial conditions and required export documentation are complete.

Release conditions

The lot must meet the applicable final quality, quantity and packing requirements. Payment conditions must also be satisfied according to the agreed commercial terms before shipment release.

Any approved exception should be documented.

Export documents

Commercial invoice, packing list, transport document, certificate of origin and any applicable preference or customs documents are prepared according to the shipment and destination requirements.

Style descriptions, quantities, values, weights and consignee information should remain consistent across the relevant documents.

Shipment release closes manufacturing only when product and documentation agree.

Dispatch control

Cartons are handed to the approved carrier or forwarder, and tracking is shared promptly.

The shipment file retains inspection, packing and export records for future reference.

Practical considerations

Do not release a shipment that has failed required quality or commercial release conditions.
Cross-check relevant export documents.
Confirm consignee and delivery information.
Record carrier or forwarder handover.
Share tracking or transport details promptly.

Manufacturing reference

Final inspection	Quality pass	Product release
Balance payment	Commercial condition	Financial release
Export documents	Invoice, packing and origin	Customs release
Carrier handover	Tracking and proof	Dispatch completion

Travel Sets →

Release conditions

Readiness review

Controlled start

Practical considerations

Manufacturing reference

Capacity planning

Sequence and balance

Schedule control

Practical considerations

Manufacturing reference

Incoming checks

Lot discipline

Release and traceability

Practical considerations

Manufacturing reference

Preparation requirements

Machine suitability

Control

Practical considerations

Manufacturing reference

Setup variables

First-off panel

Approved settings

Practical considerations

Manufacturing reference

Panel control

In-process checks

Handling

Practical considerations

Manufacturing reference

Inline inspection

Immediate correction

Records and feedback

Practical considerations

Manufacturing reference

Matching rules

Preparation for assembly

Bundle control

Practical considerations

Manufacturing reference

Assembly method

Workmanship control

Post-linking review

Practical considerations

Manufacturing reference

Typical operations

Repair discipline

Final trimming

Practical considerations

Manufacturing reference

Process control

Dimensional response

Batch discipline

Practical considerations

Manufacturing reference

Drying method

Blocking and shaping

Conditioning

Practical considerations

Manufacturing reference

Measurement state

Tolerances

Data use

Practical considerations

Manufacturing reference

Inspection scope

Defect classification

Disposition

Practical considerations

Manufacturing reference

Inspection framework

Inspection content

Release rule

Practical considerations

Manufacturing reference

Shade evaluation

Shade grouping

Traceability

Practical considerations

Travel Sets