MATERIALS / 01
What Is Cashmere?
Cashmere is a fine animal fibre obtained from the soft undercoat of cashmere-producing goats. Its value is not created by softness alone. Fibre fineness, length, cleanliness, colour, dehairing quality, spinning discipline and final knit engineering all determine whether the finished garment performs at a true luxury standard.
The fibre behind the name
Cashmere develops as a protective undercoat beneath the goat’s coarser outer hair. After collection, the fibre must be cleaned and dehaired so that the finer down can be separated from guard hair and contamination. The quality of this process has a direct effect on the finished yarn’s smoothness, consistency and comfort.
For luxury knitwear, the most relevant variables are fibre diameter, staple length, colour, crimp, cleanliness and consistency. Finer fibre contributes softness, while adequate length supports yarn strength and a cleaner surface. Excessive short fibre may increase fuzz, shedding or pilling. Natural colour also matters because lighter fibre offers greater flexibility for pale shades, while darker fibre may be well suited to natural or deeper tonal programmes.
Cashmere should therefore be understood as a complete technical system rather than a single raw material description.
How cashmere quality is evaluated
Micron is an important indicator, but it does not provide a complete quality judgement. A technically suitable cashmere yarn combines appropriate fineness with adequate fibre length, controlled short-fibre content, clean spinning, stable colour and reliable lot continuity.
Yarn quality must then be tested in the intended construction. A yarn that performs well in a compact jersey may behave differently in a loose rib, cable, links-links or brushed finish. Washing and finishing can further change density, handfeel, surface bloom and dimensional stability.
Material suitability is therefore best confirmed through swatching, washing, measurement review and garment-level assessment. Where continuity matters, the approved standard should remain linked to the actual yarn article and production lot.
Material selection is the technical foundation of handfeel, proportion, performance and long-term product value.
From fibre to finished knitwear
The same cashmere fibre can produce very different garments depending on count, ply, gauge, stitch, machine setting and finishing. A fine count may support a lightweight 14GG layering piece, while a multiple-ply construction may create a substantial 5GG cardigan or outer layer.
Looser structures can increase softness and drape but may require tighter control of shape stability. Denser structures can improve definition and resilience but may feel less fluid. The correct balance depends on the product brief, target garment weight, silhouette and intended use.
Professional material evaluation considers the complete specification: yarn article, count, ply, gauge, stitch, colour, target weight, finishing method, certification scope and delivery requirements.
Practical considerations
- Define garment category, season, target customer and retail position.
- Confirm yarn article, count, ply, gauge and stitch before costing.
- Approve colour, lot and certification scope against current supplier documentation.
- Review washed swatch handfeel, density, dimensional stability and surface behaviour.
- Confirm yarn availability, procurement minimums and bulk timing before production commitment.
Technical reference
| 3–5GG | Heavy / sculptural | Lofty jerseys, ribs, cables and outer layers |
|---|---|---|
| 7–10GG | Core / versatile | Sweaters, cardigans, links-links and transitional knitwear |
| 12–16GG | Fine / fluid | Refined jerseys, layering pieces and lightweight knitwear |